Hammerhead binding mounting template

Since I was never really committed to on-area tele skiing, I never forked over the cash for plastic telemark boots. I did eventually buy a pair of leather boots with a plastic cuff and a couple buckles to replace my hand-me-down Asolo Extremes.

I put these together with some Army surplus cm Karhu Catamounts and that was my rig until In the meantime, the world turned to plastic and telemark gear left me behind.

Waaaay behind. Sometime in those 9 years, my friend Todd gave me a used pair of Black Diamond Nunyo tele skis.

They also have the advantage of being narrow enough at the waist that I should be able to turn them in leathers with no lift. This weekend, I decided to swap my old bindings off the Catamounts and onto the Nunyos to see if I can make them work on the hill.

I did a few quick searches on the web for advice, downloaded and printed a Voile template, and jumped into the project. First step was to fill the old binding holes in the Nunyos. After reading a discussion of epoxy adhesives and ski cores on the Wild Snow blog , I decided to use 5-minute epoxy both to seal the holes and bond the screws for the new bindings.

Whoda thunk? Holes filled I switched to getting the old screws out of the Catamounts. I was pretty sure I had epoxied those screws, so I followed a tip from the Wild Snow blog and heated the head of each screw with a soldering iron to break the bond on the screws. All screws backed out easily. Next step was the most critical and most confusing. Where to mount the bindings?? Back in the day at Life Tools I mounted a bunch of backcountry skis.

The rule of thumb was to mount at the balance point for skinnier touring skis, and at the chord center for tele-specific boards.

Now I learned that skis can also be mounted at the boot sole center, and that newer skis with more sidecut have balance points that can be way off the boot center mark. I figured I needed to do some measuring and then take a wild guess. My first measurement was the center line of the ski. The balance points were slightly different so I marked the forward most measurement to insure that both skis would be slightly tail heavy if I were to mount the pins at this line.

My final measurement was boot center. I measured the sole of my boot from nose to heel excluding duck bill and made a mark on the edge of the sole.

Using these three marks I started to work up an educated guess. What I discovered is that, with the pin line of the boots set on the balance point of the skis, the boot center matched up with the boot center mark on the skis. Problem solved. I would mount at the boot center AND the balance point. Once I made up my mind about where the pins would go, I measured and measured again to insure that both skis were mounted at the same point.

Then I laid the binding template over the ski and carefully aligned the orienting marks to make sure the holes were properly aligned and centered on the ski. Satisfied, I taped the template in place and got ready to drill.

For this reason, I wrote a program to compute hole locations given a binding and BSL, while aligning the two pages is made easier with thin alignment marks that span the full page ensuring a straight template centerline. I also print two templates per set since center punching is destructive. The templates are available on my github. If you don't mind some Haskell programming you can also use the program to do things like compare holes locations of varying bindings, BSLs, and mount points, in case you are considering the optimal placement for a remount:.

Alpine binding mounting templates. We also offer Jigarex and any tools you could need for traditional mounts as well. It is properly heat treated to withstand ordinary shop use. The jaw conforms to the tool being held, making it rigid and less apt to loosen.

The wrench has a sliding handle that Last edited: Mar 19, Noodler Just call me Sir Turn-a-lot Skier. I would like more info on the Veritas Marking Gauge. I don't quite get how this tool is used to determine the center line on the ski. I currently use my angle guide on each side of the ski to find the intersection point and mark that at multiple places down the length of the ski.

Joined Oct 18, Posts Location Michigan. Great write up! I have been using paper and didn't know about the optical center punch and will add one. Highly recommend getting proper binding drill bits from Tognar or some place, makes for one less thing to potentially go wrong.

Last edited: Mar 20, Click to expand I didn't know about optical punches -- I have to get one of those! KingGrump said:. A prick punch is accurate enough. Yeah, that's what I do. But the optical punch is so cool!

Follow the prick punch with a small countersink bit that comes to a sharp point to enlarge the prick punch indentation so the follow up drill bit doesn't walk. A step drill bit is strongly suggested if hand drilling. Otherwise have ptex repair tools and material handy. Tony S I have a confusion to make Joined Nov 14, Posts 7, Location Maine. It is a labor of love, but love don't pay the bills. Your support is humbly requested, and graciously appreciated.

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